BinocularsBlog – Advice on Digital, Waterproof, & Compact Binoculars for Bird Watching, Sports, Astronomy, Night Vision, & more!

Next to helping customers choose a binocular, directly, the thing I most like about my job is helping cutomers choose a binocular, indirectly, through one of my articles. I enjoy customers, I enjoy binoculars and I enjoy writing, so I'm a very lucky person to be working here at OpticsPlanet.

The first article a beginner should read in order to understand the basics on binocular construction and features is How to Understand Binoculars. From there, a beginner can go to articles for specific applications. These include: Astronomical Binoculars, Birding Binoculars, How to choose a hunting binocular, High Power Observation For Home Or Office and Waterproof Marine Binoculars. I've even included on digital binoculars at Digital Binoculars Basics (Learn Basics Of Digital Binocular.

If I can think of anymore, you'll see them on our website. My pen is always busy.

I've noticed that binoculars have been going on a diet like the rest of us these past years. Not too long ago, a full size binocular with a 42mm objective, typically weighed between thirty and thirty-five ounces. Thanks to modern materials and new designs, it is rare these days to find a full-size binocular that weighs that much. Most 10x42 binoculars now tip the scales between twenty-five and thirty ounces and a few full size models, such as the ever popular Nikon Monarch 8x42 actually have managed to squeeze down to less than twenty-two ounces. Wow! No need to carry a tank, anymore if you want full size performance in a binocular.

Due to some recent financial setbacks, I've been forced to sell of most of my binoculars. Life is like that, sometimes, but material things come and go. This is only a temporary situation.

As the optics shelf emptied, though, I began to wonder which of my binoculars I would NOT allow to go to the auction block, as I was determined to keep one binocular. Life may be hard, but no way would I ever be without at least one binocular. In the end, which binocular would I keep? Would it be one of my birding binoculars? Would it be one of my compact binoculars? Surely, I would keep one of these from the standpoint of practicality. After all, I used one of these binoculars on an almost daily basis.

Surprisingly, the one I could not part with was the one I least expected to keep when the purge began. It was my astronomy binocular - my Nikon Astroluxe 10x70. Guess I couldn't bear the thought of not going out on the patio on a dark night and exploring the night sky for open star clusters and nebulae with the big Nikon. It's such a special binocular and binocular astronomy is something just too close to my heart and, as always, I listen to my heart in all things.

As a fan of binoculars with that little red ball logo on them (Leica, of course), I was quite intrigued by Leica's announcement of a new version of the Leica Ultravid, known as the Leica Ultravid HD binocular (HD for high definition), featuring fluorite-ion glass , which Leica says will further improve light transmission and improve color rendition. Knowing, personally, that the current Leica Ultravid binoculars are no slouch, optically, could the optics on the new Leica Ultravid HD really be better?

A soon as Joanie gets her hot little hands on the new Ultravid HD, available later this fall, I will report back. Will Joanie be tempted ot buy one, regardless? Well ...

It's been a long standing tradition to offer premium grade compact binoculars in either an 8x20 or 10x25. I've owned and used every Leica compact binocular, including the Ultravid and Trinovis, every Swarovski compact binocular, every Nikon Premier LX compact binocular and several Zeiss compact binoculars. All were great compact binoculars and I highly recommend any of them. However, I wish one of these fine manufacturers would break the mold and offer an 8x compact binocular with just a bit larger lens, say an 8x25 or even an 8x28. I think the slightly larger objective would not seriously compromise portability, but it would add just enough bulk to make the binocular a bit steadier to hold. Okay, I don't expect anyone to run to the drawing board on my account, but I know one gal who would buy one.

Ever wonder why some binoculars just feel so good in your hands? I know, I know, this is venturing into the murky world of personal preference and subjective evaluation. That's a place an expert is supposed to enter with some trepidation. Still, there is just something about a Swarovski or Leica compact binocular that makes me drool when I put one in my hands. It's that elusive "feel" of quality that makes me break out in a sweat and grab my checkbook to see what I can make happen. Most of the time, I have the discipline to hold the line, but sometimes ... What I'm trying to say is that you can read all the specs and get as scientific as you want when you select a binocular, but personal preference, brand loyalty and other subjective factors are not to be taken lightly. Pride of ownership is a very valid reason for buying a a quality binocular. Hey, it's fun just holding a great binocular.

This has been another chapter in the "Confessions of an Optics Addict". Stay tuned for more episodes.

Binocular weight is an issue on several fronts, but weight is most often an issue of comfort when wearing a binocular around your neck. How much weight does it take to make the weight of a binocular uncomfortable when using a conventional binocular strap?

That, of course, depends on the person and how long the binocular will be hanging on your neck. I'm an average, though tall, gal, but I find anything more than thirty ounces to be very uncomfortable after about one hour. Of course, some of my guy friends have no problem with even heavier binoculars, though I suspect it may also be a guy thing for some of them to tote the big stuff.

Comfort also depends on the width and padding on the binocular strap. That much is a no brainer, okay. One thing that a lot of people don't realize, though, is that comfort also depends on how you adjust the binocular strap. I see people out in the field all the time with a binocular hanging much too low on the strap. A basic rule of thumb is that if the binocular is swinging as you walk, the strap is too long. A strap that is too long allows the binocular to exert more leverage on your neck, adding to its perceived weight. A binocular that is hanging too low also allows the binocular to swing back and forth as you walk, allowing it to more easily strike other objects and even tangle in the brush.

On my binoculars, I adjust the strap to be just long enough to get over my head and around my neck when wearing my winter clothing, but I cinch it up a bit during warmer months. Where is your binocular hanging?

As I get older, I seem less and less able to get along with 10x binoculars. I know, I know, today's fifties is like yesterday's forties or something, but it doesn't change the fact that I just can't steady a 10x binocular the way I could when I was younger. To be sure, as I approach my senior years, there are more important issues, but it does spook me a little to know that I have lost something. Don't get me wrong - I am not about to go with an image stabilized binocular. The situation is not that critical. Just means that I now have to shop for some more 7x and 8x binoculars. What a shame.

The idea of attaching a "doubler" to a binocular, as seen in the Swarovski doubler or Bushnell Universal 2.5x to increase its magnification is not new. Amateur astronomers, myself included, have held monoculars and magnifiers to one of the eyepieces of a tripod mounted astronomy binocular for many years. I commonly use a Zeiss 3x or even a Nikon 5x15HG behind my 10x70 binocular when mounted on a tripod to increase magnification when I want to split a double star or to check an ID on a small object. A tripod is essential, of course, and I also recommend a tripod for people who attach a doubler to a binocular or, failing that, to at least support the binocular on a nearby object. High magnification turns a handheld binocular into a wild, bucking horse.

It rained heavily this weekend, but I did manage to get some nice miles (35 beautiful ones) on the bike trail, early Saturday morning, before all the rain started. The rest (55 miles) of my weekend biking was on the bike trainer, which I have setup in my living room.

No doubt about it, biking indoors is a poor substitute for the real thing. What I miss most is hearing and seeing the birds out on the trail and the surprise and pleasure that comes with being able to pull off the trail, now and then, binocular in hand, when I see a bird or a promising habitat. Biking is such a wonderful way to cover a lot of habitats and see a wide variety of birds. It allows a silent approach with a minimum of disruption and, of course, it is also an eco-friendly mode of transportation. You can carry a big binocular if that's all you have, but I like an 8x compact binocular, such as my Leica Trinovid 8x20 to keep the weight down.

This weekend, I noticed that the blackbirds are beginning to show their fall roosting and flocking behaviors. It's one of the most visible and spectacular reminders that the seasons are about to change. Don't assume that these flocks are all comprised of the same species, however. A careful scan through the binocular will often show a mix of species. Grab a bike, a binocular, maybe a snack and hit the trail if you want to see the show.

Individual eyepiece focus (IF) is a focusing system widely used in marine binoculars and astronomy binoculars, but some people find that an IF focusing system produces more eye fatigue over long observing sessions than a center focus system. One of the secrets I have discovered over the years for getting the most out of IF binoculars is to TOTALLY relax your eyes as you observe. This is even more important when making the original adjustment. The least amount of squinting when using an individual eyepiece focus binocular will produce a small amount of eye fatigue which will accumulate over an extended observing session.

You don't need special meditation techniques to relax your eyes before using an IF binocular (though meditation is, in itself, a worthy undertaking). Just close your eyes as if you are getting ready to go to sleep, consciously relax all the muscles around your eyes, then begin observing. This also a good check to see if you've been squinting. If, after you have relaxed your eyes, the image in your IF binocular is not in focus, you have been squinting. Stop that!

I've been on a small kick, lately. Just how small can you go in a binocular? The answer is darn small, not much larger than a monocular, actually. For instance, the Nikon Titanium 5x15 has the same objective size as a small monocular and, at 7 ounces, it doesn't weigh much more than a monocular, either. Optics are, of course, Nikon excellent, as you would expect from the price. Best of all, this little jewel of a binocular gives you the viewing comfort of a binocular. Is this Joanie's next binocular? Hmmm.

I sometimes tell a customer that is struggling to make a decision on which of two very similar binoculars to buy that the decision is going to be a matter of personal choice. The binocular market is a very competitive one and, at any given price point, there is rarely a binocular that stands out from the pack in terms of performance and quality. Personal preference will be the final deciding factor.

Personal preference in a binocular can be a result of many things - brand loyalty, brand name recognition, prior experience with a brand or knowing someone who owns a specific brand of binocular. It is also very much a matter of advertising and, these days, also very much a matter of internet activity via reviews.

Do I have my favorites when it comes to binocular brands and models? Of course. Is there an element of personal preference involved? Of course, though, as a professional, I try to keep things reasonably objective and, when dealing with a customer, I do my best to keep my professional opinions and personal opinions separate. When asked for my personal opinion, though, I will offer it, but I will state that it is a personal opinion. Hey, I'm not out to change the world, I'm just trying to help when someone wants to buy a binocular.

Had a customer ask me about zip focus on a binocular, specifically, what is zip focus? Well, it's a version of Bushnell's Insta-focus, as seen on this model of Bushnell Powerview 10x50. Instead of a conventional center focus wheel, a zip focus or Insta-focus binocular uses a pivoting lever, which you depress alternately on one side or the other to focus the binocular. The advantage of a zip focus binocular is that the binocular focuses quicker than a conventional center focus binocular, but the disadvantage, and the reason you only see it these days on cheap binoculars, is that it tends to wear out quickly, compared to a center focus binocular.

A binocular in the hand is worth a dozen binoculars left in the vehicle or in the closet at home because you didn't want to carry the weight of a large binocular. Arguing the fine points of binocular performance is academic in the truest sense of the word if you don't have a binocular when you need one. I've experienced this, myself, so many times over the years that it is now second nature to me to always have a compact binocular at my disposal.

In the long rum I have made as many great bird sightings with a compact binocular, such as my Leica Trinovid 8x20, as I have with my larger, dedicated birding binoculars. Why? The Leica just happened to be handy when I needed it and, with birds, you never know when you are going to be in a birding situation. Great example is yesterday morning. I was riding my bike a mere two blocks from my suburban apartment when a beautiful Coopers Hawk glided quietly about twenty feet over my head and landed in a small tree in someone's front yard. It's not exactly the place I would go looking on purpose for a Coopers. Never leave home without a binocular.

OpticsPlanet.net purchased the Apogee website, earlier this year, along with several models of Apogee's remaining stock on giant binoculars, (we did not purchase the company or any of their accessories). What this means for astronomy customers is that you can pick up a 100mm giant binocular at a fraction of what it costs for other brands of 100mm astronomy binoculars. Still hard to believe that you can still buy an Apogee 20x100 binocular or the same thing with built in nebulae filters in the Apogee 20x100NB binocular for under $200 and that price even inlcudes the tripod adapter.

Finally had a chance to put the new Pentax DCF ED 10x43 binocular through its paces on the optics charts. Gotta say that resolution, brightness and contrast and flatness of field were as good as I have ever seen in a 10x binocular at any price. Edge sharpness was good, though not great and I did detect just a trace of color, but it was just a trace. Overall, it qualifies as a premium binocular as far as optics are concerned and it does it at a not quite premium binocular price. Pentax did a great job on this one.

To me, there are few things as satisfying as relaxing in a lawn chair under the stars, scanning the sky for open and globular clusters with a binocular. This, I suppose, reveals a lot about my nature and my approach to all things, but it should also serve as a reminder to beginners that astronomy need not be an equipment-centered hobby or a pursuit reserved only for techno-geeks. True, I do have a technical side, but, at heart, I am a romantic and an aesthetic being. After all, I long ago filled my list of astronomical objects that can be seen with a binocular. Today, I seek, find and observe the very same objects I have seen for the last forty years and I am ever grateful to claim that they fill with the same awe and wonder as they did when I first turned a binocular toward the heavens so many years ago.

Pull up a lawn chair and join me some night. Bring any binocular. It doesn't have to be a special astronomy binocular, by any means, and if you don't have a binocular, you can use one of mine. It will be good for your soul. The show begins at dark.

Time marches on in the optics industry and the pace of new products been added to the already dizzying selection of binoculars seems to be accelerating. Newer, brighter, sleeker, sharper continues to bombard us every day when it comes to binoculars.

For an old, traditionalist like me, it's always nice to see a few old familiar faces still hanging on. One of these is the venerable Leica 8x20 Trinovid compact binocular. No, I'm not talking about the newer Leica Ultravid 8x20. As good as the new Ultravid is, I still like the Trinovid compact binocular. Sure, the Ultravid has better eye relief, full waterproofing (the Trinovid is not waterproof), nicer focusing and perhaps a touch better optics as well. The Trinovid, though, is hardly a slouch. And for me, the Trinovid is an old friend. I have been using an 8x20 Trinovid since the early 90's. Waterproof or not, mine has been through rain, snow, sleet, heat and cold without a problem. With it, I have seen thousands of birds. It's always been there for me and, at one point in my life when I was trying to survive a personal and financial crisis, it was my only binocular. You simply cannot replace that kind of experience with a new binocular model, no matter how good.

As much as I love high-end binoculars (okay, I'm addicted to high-end binoculars), I hate to see beginning birders wait to go birding until they can afford an expensive binocular. In the long run, sure, a quality binocular is the best value, but to stay home for lack of having a binocular when you could be out birding is a mistake, especially when there are many inexpensive binoculars that will get a beginning birder started. This is especially important for parents with a child showing an interest in birding (I started with a $40 binocular and that was a lot of money for my family) or for folks on a tight budget (I've been there, too).

This is not to say that any old binocular will do for birding. You need a binocular with reasonably close focus, about 15 feet or less, a binocular with center focus and, if you wear eyeglasses, a binocular with at least 15mm of eye relief. I also prefer a "fully multi-coated" model for best image brightness, though a model labeled as "multi-coated" or just "fully-coated" will still work. Waterproofing is not essential, unless you are birding in a moist, humid climate, but waterproofing is still a nice feature to have, since a waterproof bino is also better sealed against dust and dirt. Lastly, since we are on a budget, here, I also recommend a porro prism, since a porro gives you the most for your optical dollar when you are on a tight budget. For more information, see my article, Birding Binoculars

Here's a handful that meet the requirements of a birding binocular at some very reasonable prices. Try the Audubon Intrepid 8x40, the Bushnell Legacy 8x42, the Bushnell Natureview 8x42 or the Celestron Outland LX 8x40. There are others, of course, but any of these is better than my first birding binocular and all are under $100. For sure, they are good enough to teach a beginner the basics. Just get out there and see the birds. No excuse for staying home.

Now and then I get a question on the "rangefinder" function on a marine binocular that advertises a ranefinder. A good example of such a binocular is the excellent Steiner Commander V 7x50

First, to clear the air, this is not a laser rangefinder. It is an optical grid rangefinder - a far less efficient or useful rangefinder. An optical grid rangefinder in a binocular uses a grid, visible when you look through the binocular, which you use to bracket the object in question. The catch is that you must know the height of the object in question, then do mathematical calculations to determine the distance. Obviously, this is of limited use in the field and, to be honest, it is a feature that survives in marine binoculars more out of tradition than usefulness, unless you just happen to know the height of a ship you are observing.

You calculate range according to the following equation. It does not matter what units you use (feet, yards, meters, kilometers) as long as you use the same unit of measurement for all variables, including height of the object.

Distance to the target equals actual height (must be known in advance) of the target divided by the reticule height (number of lines the target occupies on the grid) times 1000.